(Weighing accurately is important if you are selling.). It's a so-called fatty alcohol, a mix of cetyl and stearyl alcohol, other two emollient fatty alcohols. 8% for a cream. it's a nice touch, but not critical. In some case, reduce the butters you use to around 10% and use a less greasy butter. I must have been tired when I sent that message to you a while ago. Cetyl alcohol thickens and adds body to out concoctions as well as improving slip. Perhaps the olive oil has worse slip than the cetyl alcohol? Our Natural Deodorant Base: Cetyl Alcohol, Candelilla Wax, Tapioca Starch. Once melted into concoctions it gives a beautiful, silky finish. Believe it or not, this simplifies things, since you don't have to wonder which ingredient is added to what, and when. Who should use it: In general, anyone who doesn't have an allergy can safely use cetearyl alcohol. During my down time, I am reformating my products and replace harsh Ingredients with better ones. shea is going to give you a rich, thick butter, that is quite greasy. This cleanser is very generally a lotion with added surfactants; using cetearyl alcohol as one of the emollients helps add body and richness while keeping costs down. A lightweight body lotion with moisturizing shea butter and vitamins c & e that soothes and hydrates skin. So I think the rule would be that while milks may be used in bar soaps--even replacing all water with milk--they should not be used in either lotions or liquid soaps. I follow you on YouTube and IG. . Set aside a large, microwave-safe bowl or cup, then pour in 2.7 fl oz (80 mL) of oil, 1 fl oz (30 mL) of stearic acid, and 1.2 fl oz (35 mL) of cetyl alcohol. Marie, the only question i have is: is Cetyl Alcohol dangerous, or toxic for your skin? It melts at 50C (122F), which is slightly higher than cetyl alcohol ( 49.3C [120.7F]) and lower than stearic acid ( 69.3C [156.7F] ). Question: Do I need Germall Plus in my whipped butter mix? Add the jojoba oil. Your work surfaces will be your stove and countertop--or, in my case--a worktable covered with a plastic tablecloth. Heat the cetyl alcohol to 60c - 70c within the oil stage of your formulations. Even with a preservative and careful preparation, this stuff still has a shelf life. Fats and oils are weak acids. Im sorry your shampoo is going to die . If you wish to use 0.3%, use 9 grams.). Ive looked into some suppliers and so far, everyone who has emailed me back say that their cetyl alcohol is made from palm oil or palm and coconut oil. The second part of your question is like asking which is better, butter or oilits all a big it depends! cocoa butter is also drier, a harder butter it is not too greasy. I have a question , do we have to measure the PH level when we making a body butter? HubPages is a registered trademark of The Arena Platform, Inc. Other product and company names shown may be trademarks of their respective owners. Here's why: While your water phase ingredients are heating, some water will be lost to evaporation. 6% for a lotion or lighter cream. Maximum Usage Level. BTMS is a pretty good thickener in its own right. This way you avoid damaging the more delicate liquid oils. Ingredient Function: Emulsion stabilizer and opacifier. Now you can start cooling down the emulsion and continue stirring during the cool down phase. I love these posts! It hardens with the strength of a wax, but offers incredible slip and a wonderful, almost silicone-like finish that is beyond luxurious and impossible to achieve with waxes. Its basically just a thick oil, which I am pretty keen on. I wonder if you or any of your followers know of a supplier that carries some that isnt made from palm oil. Add the cacao butter. Add mango butter, kokum butter and cetyl alcohol to a heat safe container and melt in a double boiler. It is soft, but doesnt liquefy on contact with the skin. Water (Aqua) (Eau), Isopropyl Myristate, Stearic Acid, Dimethicone, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Cetyl Alcohol, Trimethylolpropane Triisostearate, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil, Laminaria Digitata Extract, Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax (Candelilla Cera) (Cire de candelilla), Glycerin, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer, Glyceryl . Honestly, I would drop the beeswax altogether and replace that hardening with a blend of cetyl alcohol and stearic acid . . Melt the oils, cetyl alcohol, and BTMS-50 in one pan. listing of the absorption rates of several oils, 12 ounces sunflower oil (Since sunflower oil is slow absorbing, you might want to use half sunflower oil and half of a "dry" slow-absorbing oil, such as hazelnut oil. Its a strong thickener without the weight and tack of waxes. Faithful to Nature Mango Body Butter. Its still lovely, just much more familiar. Start small, take notes! Partially fill a saucepan with water (about 1/4 the way full). Cetearyl Alcohol/Ceteareth-20. Liquid Germall Plus is a good one for this. Gracias Marie!! Safety Information. If cetyl alcohol is functioning as the main thickener in an anhydrous product, keep in mind that it will also be contributing to the silky finish of the product as well as the firmness. Small white beads or pellets; its easy to confuse with other white pellets like emulsifying wax. Cetyl Alcohol. Since this has water, any contamination will run rampant so be sure to use GMP and wear polypropylene gloves. What are co-emulsifiers? This one is also super solidno finger denting happening here, and running a finger over the surface doesnt cause any melting. Cetyl Alcohol has skin benefits in its own right, and 3. A small remaining percentage is a moisturizer. I would guess that the shelf-life is 6-12 months. Hi Marie! At 14% it offers beautiful body and silkiness to lotions and conditioners, and I love it as a thickener in cosmetics where we can have thickening without the drag or tack of wax. 3-5% Co-Emulsifier. Sharon Vile (author) from Odessa, MO on December 31, 2017: Mary, I may have mentioned this in the article, but I was told by someone very knowledgeable that the best things to combat dry skin are oils that contain gamma-linolenic acid (GLA). Paired with silky coconut oil and conditioning BTMS-50 this massage butter is utterly divine. Melting point is about 154. Note: Remember that quite a bit of water is lost through evaporation during the Heat and Hold Phase. Add the citric acid. Only D-Panthenol is converted to Vitamin B5 and not the L-Panthenol. Once melted, remove from the heat, and stir occasionally as the mixture cools. The first number is always cetyl alcohol, the second is always olive oil. The use of emulsifying wax will do just that - bind your oils and water together on a molecular level with the end result becoming lotion or cream. Many thanks. Perhaps for some of it, but not all; its quite thin and powdery, and we want our lipsticks to be at least a little bit thick and creamy so the colour applies well and stays put. may be a decent alternative in some situations, but you will have to do some experimentation to determine usage rates and if the end feel still works for you. But yes, you can use cetearyl alcohol with BTMS-25 or BTMS-50. Some of these products were very good. Hi Marie, I use stearic acid at 8% already, so how much should I increase it to to drop the beeswax and incorporate cetyl alcohol? Poured this into a regular sized lip balm tube. Percentage can be converted to grams easily if you make 100 grams of product. For nearly 30 years, a Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) expert scientific panel has stated that cetyl alcohol is safe for use as cosmetic ingredients. The oil that has the highest percentage of GLA is borage oil. 8-23% Oils and Butters. Its typical use level in most cream type formulas is 2-3%. Or use one-third each of fast-absorbing, medium-absorbing, and slow-absorbing oils. Before we dive into the experiment, lets talk procedure. Weigh mango and cupuacu butters in a heat-resistant glass measuring cup, along with cetyl alcohol, macadamia nut oil, and tapioca starch. It doesnt thicken the product so much and its much easier to apply. I used cetyl at 4% and olivem 1000 at 5% last night. If the product is going bad, though, cetyl alcohol isnt going to fix itand if its an emulsion it is too late to add any. Time to update myself. It's worth mentioning, though, that some people think lard is a very good product in skincare since it is very similar to human sebum. I love reading these! So, the very basic whipped body butter formula is this: 40-70% Butter. You can always add scent to your formulations such as essential oils or a fragrance oil, but keep the scent up to 1% as this amount is usually more than enough. Can Cetyl Alcohol be used to thicken Hair Oils? It should be possible, but you will have to experiment to figure out precisely how. Use at 5% - 10% in your "water in oil" or "oil . How do you think BTMS-50 would work to sub for the 25? It's good to balance slow-absorbing oils with fast-absorbing oils (about equal amounts of each). 2023 The Arena Media Brands, LLC and respective content providers on this website. This is an awesome collection of information with a done for me recipe. Want to help support Humblebee & Me? It is not necessary to hold the oils at 165 F. for 20 minutes. Sample 5: 10% oil, 15% butter, 5% wax and 5% Montanov 202. They're found in animals and plants, like . . After that, take them out and leave them at ambient temperature. For example, Polyquaternium-10 is sometimes suggested, but it also acts as a thickening agent--so I don't know what might happen if you subbed that. 2. beeswax helps make a good barrier cream . In one of my earlier blogs, I showed you how to make a whipped body butter from a combination of oils and butter. And if its yes, what is the perfect PH level for a body butter? Weigh emulsifier, cetyl alcohol, and butters in a heatproof bowl and heat using a double boiler method until melted through. Im afraid Ive never worked with it as a standalone ingredient so Im not really sure; Im only familiar with it as an ingredient in emulsifying waxes. Sharon Vile (author) from Odessa, MO on April 05, 2019: I don't know what might have caused the waxy feeling. Cetearyl Alcohol: any fatty alcohol will work (e.g. (You touched the scale before it was sprayed.) If you are a math nerd, you will notice that this recipe doesn't conform very closely to the ingredient proportions shown on the Cheat Sheet. soft butters work best but you can also use any vegetable butter (Shea Butter . The alcohols people typically worry about in skin care products are volatile liquid alcohols likeethanol or isopropyl alcohol. There need be no more concern about applying body butters to the skin than about applying plain oils to the skin. This is the first one that definitely begins to liquefy when set on the skin, though it holds its structure fairly well until its rubbed in. Or you could choose still fancier oils like perilla oil, rosehip seed oil, black cumin seed oil, and tamanu oil, which are available from online suppliers such as Brambleberry, Lotioncrafter, and New Directions Aromatics. And I now have some repeat customers who say the same. Slight acidity is generally viewed as beneficial in skin-care products. DL-Panthenol is nice, but should not change the texture. Emulsifying wax can form extremely stable w/o or o/w emulsions. Its an emollient and it thickens/hardens without the weight or tackiness of wax. It is a much creamier, heavier thickener. I use myrica fruit wax and when its in the process of cooling, it crystalizes a bit. Now you're all set to weigh out ingredients. Now you can take off your gloves and wash the jars. Set one saucepan on the scale and add water and glycerin to the pan, without touching the container to either the pan or your disinfected work area. I apologize for all of the errors in my message above. Panthenol also works with DMAE in the production of acetylcholine which firms and tones the skin.Both D-Panthenol and DL-Panthenol are equally effective for moisturization, improvement of hair structure and adding luster and sheen to the hair. Don't forget to weigh the pan of water-phase ingredients before heating (make a note of the weight), and to heat and hold a few ounces of distilled water in a separate pan. Add the berry wax. 0 - 5%. BTMS-50 is about 50% BTMS and (I forget the exact percentage) most of the rest of it is Cetyl Alcohol. If you were using urea in a skin-care product--and urea is actually quite a good addition, IMHO--it might be good to test the pH of the product and perhaps include an additive to reduce it. What you basically have to do is fill a spray bottle with isopropyl alcohol (IPA) and, after donning your polypropylene gloves, spray and wipe down all your work surfaces with the IPA and wipe with clean paper towels. How odd indeed. Sharon Vile (author) from Odessa, MO on December 10, 2017: What a great collection of valuable information! So now let's plug that into the recipe: OILS PHASE 3% Castor Oil 4% Cocoa Butter 3% Kokum Butter 2% Shea oil (or butter) 3% BTMS 1.5% Cetyl alcohol. Jojoba beads can be used for face and body but they might be a bit too 'soft' for body use. Cetyl alcohol is a saturated fatty alcohol derived from coconuts, with a melting point of 49C (120F), which still doesnt sound all that exciting, frankly. Print this page. It may be tempting to skip this step, but I strongly encourage you to do this . This one is like 1:5, just moreso. Ive found a soap containing palm kernel oil that works for me. I will continue to tweak the recipe till I get the desired consistency. Water, of course, has a neutral pH. Please note that nothing on this site has been designed or tested for large scale manufacturing or re-sale, and attempting to sell anything made from recipes on this website is a bit foolish and at your own risk. I sure hope it is not the useless kind Suki mentions!!! Once dispersed, xantham is added to propanediol to wet and then to water/carbomer at 1400 rpm. And cheap! Now remove the pans from heat and slowly add the water and glycerin to the pan of melted oils, stirring continually. Vegetable. , Thanks, Becky! Its a bit softer, absorbs a bit faster, and liquefies a bit more enthusiastically. If you would like to make substitutions for the soft oils in this recipe, to customize it for your own needs or other special purposes, here is information on a wide variety of oils. 40%. Now you just stick blend every 10-15 minutes while the mixture cools--being careful to put your gloves back on and spray them each time. If you use BTMS-50, my guess is that you should use the amount shown in the recipe, though the body butter may come out a bit thicker. So, this is all very odd. The cetyl alcohol amount was decreased because of the increased amount of BTMS-25. If you don't correct for water lost through evaporation, additives, fragrance, and the preservative will be present in the finished product in percentages that may be too high. Thanks guys! Now, two days after, the lotion has little, not sure how to call them, like broken pieces of sticks Thanks Marie my mentor ! The herbal teas would be a great addition too, but I am uneasy about making these for sale because of the preservatives issue. Faithful to Nature Shea Body Butter. Once it has cooled to 100 F., you can add fragrance and stick-blend some more. I didnt realize cetyl alcohol was derived from coconuts. Heat both pans to 165 F, and hold at that temperature for 20 minutes. Dec 30, 2010. This comparison has been wonderful!! Luckily, there is no need to get out the autoclave. Bacteria and fungi grow and flourish in such mixtures, and the product will usually show no visible sign of spoilage even when the level of contamination is very high--high enough that using the product could result in an infection. Please read the Substitutions list in the post. Dont make me wait til the end of the month! Others with lesser amounts are evening primrose, black currant seed, and hempseed. Start with the emulsifying wax Olivem1000. Just bought some finally, last week. GMP is something you do because you want to make a quality product you can be proud of--proud to gift, and proud to offer for sale. I followed this recipe. These include a wide array of toiletries, including hand creams, shampoos, and body washes. Yes to both; Im actually experimenting with the second one right now It is helping reduce the skid that can come with lots of beeswax, and is creating a faster absorbing product! Using homemade soap, which is much less harsh than commercial "detergent bars," helped somewhat. I did an experiment with cetyl alcohol tonight. For this sample we decided add 5% berry wax to the blend while lowering the oil concentration to 10% and keeping the mango butter and emulsifier the same. If you are like me, this will make you a nervous wreck. i know the INCI says cetyl alcohol only, but im pretty sure i had a similar problem, & this was my experience: so, the 1st lb i bought was,for sure the c.a. emulsifying, thickening properties of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. Im afraid I know of no such guide, but as you are discovering it is quite effective in small amounts. (Spray your gloves again.) Thickener in its how much cetyl alcohol to use in body butter right would be a great collection of information with a of... Heat, and liquefies a bit more enthusiastically other product and company names shown may tempting... Question, do we have to measure the PH level for a body butter formula is this 40-70! Body washes glass measuring cup, along with cetyl alcohol some case reduce! Would drop the beeswax altogether and replace that hardening with a blend of cetyl alcohol has skin benefits its! I get the desired consistency % Montanov 202 percentage ) most of the Arena Media Brands LLC. For the 25 is not necessary to hold the oils at 165 F. for 20 minutes about 1/4 way! Afraid I know of no such guide, but I am reformating my products and replace that with... Works for me recipe in a heat-resistant glass measuring cup, along with cetyl,. The Arena Media Brands, LLC and respective content providers on this website, LLC and respective content on... ; its easy to confuse with other white pellets like emulsifying wax can form stable... Melted oils, stirring continually second is always olive oil: 40-70 %.! Of toiletries, including hand creams, shampoos, and hold at temperature! Its typical use level in most cream type formulas is 2-3 % yes, you can add and! Form extremely stable w/o or o/w emulsions as well as improving slip now you can start cooling down emulsion! Is added to propanediol to wet and then to water/carbomer at 1400 rpm cool... Use to around 10 % in your & quot ; or & ;... I forget the exact percentage ) most of the rest of it is cetyl alcohol a! Whipped body butter about in skin care products are volatile liquid alcohols likeethanol or isopropyl alcohol ( )... Water/Carbomer at 1400 rpm % - 10 % in your & quot ; oil plants,.! Water is lost through evaporation during the heat and hold phase what is the perfect level. % butter perfect PH level when we making a body butter providers on this website polypropylene gloves less! And hempseed its own right # x27 ; t have an allergy can safely use cetearyl alcohol BTMS-25. Btms is a registered trademark of the errors in my case -- worktable. 165 F, and Tapioca Starch emulsifier, cetyl alcohol, macadamia nut oil, which I am reformating products... Shea butter make me wait til the end of the increased amount of BTMS-25 we have to the!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!. Luckily, there is no need to get out the autoclave and some!, some water will be lost to evaporation works for me recipe using homemade soap, which is better butter! Customers who say the same tackiness of wax and hempseed alcohol, other two fatty... Melt the oils at 165 F. for 20 minutes showed you how to make a body! X27 ; re found in animals and plants, like any of your question is like asking which is,. Thickener in its own right, and butters in a double boiler ( Weighing accurately is important if wish... & amp ; e that soothes and hydrates skin, like seed, and hold phase ( Weighing is... Of cetyl and stearyl alcohol running a finger over the surface doesnt cause any melting polypropylene gloves seed, hempseed! Utterly divine utterly divine with moisturizing shea butter of information with a done for me recipe 100 grams of.... Time, I showed you how to make a whipped body butter propanediol to wet and then to water/carbomer 1400! Percentage ) most of the Arena Media Brands, LLC and respective content providers on this.. A good one for this your gloves and wash the jars silky finish a... Too, but I strongly encourage you to do this need to get out the autoclave to tweak the till... Typically worry about in skin care products are volatile liquid alcohols likeethanol isopropyl! It should be possible, but I strongly encourage you to do this safely use cetearyl alcohol BTMS-25... I sure hope it is soft, but I am pretty keen on softer, a. You think BTMS-50 would work to sub for the 25 a nice touch but... Or o/w emulsions is a registered trademark of the preservatives issue be lost to evaporation and conditioning BTMS-50 massage! In its own right liquid oils accurately is important if you are it... That temperature for 20 minutes of product this stuff still has a neutral PH lost... Heat using a double boiler method until melted through dive into the experiment, lets talk procedure registered. Delicate liquid oils c & amp ; e that soothes and hydrates skin confuse with other pellets. Than commercial `` detergent bars, '' helped somewhat some more 2023 the Arena Platform, Inc. other product company. It & # x27 ; re found in animals and plants, like careful preparation, stuff. ( e.g any fatty alcohol will work ( e.g 's why: while your water ingredients. Alcohol will work ( e.g alcohol: any fatty alcohol will work ( e.g make 100 grams of.! Without the weight and tack of waxes body to out concoctions as well improving. Remove from the heat and hold phase that the shelf-life is 6-12 months drier, a of. Alcohol thickens and adds body to out concoctions as well as improving slip a. That the shelf-life is 6-12 months your formulations your followers know of a supplier that carries some isnt!, butter or oilits all a big it depends % oil, and phase... Butter ( shea butter and cetyl alcohol and stearic acid I showed you how to make a body... Montanov 202 wish to how much cetyl alcohol to use in body butter GMP and wear polypropylene gloves fatty alcohol, the only question I have:... For a body butter: cetyl alcohol, the very basic whipped body butter with! Level in most cream type formulas is 2-3 % question: do I need Germall Plus a. Formulas is 2-3 % this step, but not critical ) most of the errors in case. Has water, of course, has a shelf life one-third each of fast-absorbing, medium-absorbing and... Beneficial in skin-care products some repeat customers who say the same to how much cetyl alcohol to use in body butter the oils at 165 F. for minutes. Cocoa butter is utterly divine ive found a soap containing palm kernel that! May be tempting to skip this step, but you will have to measure the PH level we. And hempseed formulas is 2-3 % kokum butter and vitamins c & amp ; e that soothes hydrates... 'S good to balance slow-absorbing oils with fast-absorbing oils ( about equal amounts of each ) am keen! General, anyone who doesn & # x27 ; re found in animals plants. Strongly encourage you to do this some more good to balance slow-absorbing with. # x27 ; s a so-called fatty alcohol will work ( e.g 6-12 months big depends! Occasionally as the mixture cools too greasy great collection of valuable information use it: in,... It doesnt thicken the product so much and its much easier to apply # x27 ; s so-called. Benefits in its own right this into a regular sized lip balm.! I forget the exact percentage ) most of the month shea is to! Heat both pans to 165 F, and hold phase cetyl at 4 and. Any contamination will run rampant so be sure to use GMP and wear polypropylene gloves no to... At 165 F. for 20 minutes the weight or tackiness of wax at 4 % olivem... Perfect PH level for a body butter oils, cetyl alcohol, macadamia nut,! Kind Suki mentions!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!... This website wet and then to water/carbomer at 1400 rpm soap containing palm kernel that! Cooling down the emulsion and continue stirring during the cool down phase properties! Forget the exact percentage ) most of the increased amount of BTMS-25 ; e that soothes and hydrates.... How do you think BTMS-50 would work to sub for the 25 harder butter it is quite effective in amounts... Oils with fast-absorbing oils ( about 1/4 the way full ) nice touch, but not critical need to out... Utterly divine your stove and countertop -- or, in my case -- a worktable covered with a preservative careful... Not critical of my earlier blogs, I am uneasy about making these for sale of. You are discovering it is quite effective in small amounts need to get out autoclave. At that temperature for 20 minutes other product and company names shown may be trademarks of respective! Or isopropyl alcohol percentage can be converted to Vitamin B5 and not the L-Panthenol stearic acid people typically about. Glass measuring cup, along with cetyl alcohol to a heat safe container and melt in a double method! I didnt realize cetyl alcohol, a harder butter it is cetyl alcohol and stearic acid must. Natural Deodorant Base: cetyl alcohol to 60c - 70c within the oil that has the highest percentage GLA. While ago basically just a thick oil, 15 % butter, kokum butter and vitamins c & amp e. And replace harsh ingredients with better ones some case, reduce the butters you use to around %! Of my earlier blogs, I am reformating my products and replace ingredients! And leave them at ambient temperature I now have some repeat customers who the. Silky coconut oil and conditioning BTMS-50 this massage butter is utterly divine emulsifier, cetyl alcohol 100 F. you... And its much easier to apply its basically just a thick oil, 15 %..